D and I went on a lovely trip to Sorrento last week. And so I’m going to try to tell the story in pictures so I can remember it. This is my first time doing an entry with photos so it may lack a little finesse.
We left on Monday night to stay in an airport hotel because our flight was (meant to be) leaving early. Unfortunately, when we got there in the morning, we were informed by a smiling BA person that the Italians were striking and therefore a number of flights were cancelled. We managed to get put on the last one of the day, so we trained into London and did some shopping and had some Chinese food. It was actually really nice to be in the city on a weekday-MUCH less crowded.
We arrived in Naples airport around 10pm and picked up the car to drive to Sorrento. Just for fun, the highway was closed for repair so we had to wind our way through towns. Thankfully I had my navigator with me although it did insist that we should U-turn for quite a while. But we got there and were shown to our room. Next morning we wake up and it turns out we are right above a lemon grove and have an amazing view:
View from hotel room
That day we sat by the pool:
The pool!
and the next day we went to Pompeii. It’s funny. In Rome, there are stray cats in all the ruins. In Pompeii, it’s dogs. We had one follow us for the entire tour which I suppose means that they’ve learned that they get fed sometimes if they do that? Anyway, Pompeii is fascinating but a guide is definitely recommended. It’s the little things I find fascinating-the bits of paint, full mosaics on people’s doorsteps, wine vats and grooves in the road from cart wheels. It’s difficult to believe that it was 79 AD when it was destoyed.
The next day we went to Amalfi and Positano. It was an adventure. Apparently I am more prone to travel sickness than I thought. We took the bus there. It’s an amazing route, and I think I’ve been on plenty. Twisty and turny with incredible drops to one side and rock to the other. And then into small towns where it seems impossible that a bus could get through. But the bus was so full we had to stand, and the AC wasn’t working very well. Shortly before Positano, I started feeling really rough. But I lasted to Amalfi and staggered off the bus to go see a beautiful church and eat some good pizza.
Church in Amalfi
We then took a boat to Positano (a much more pleasant way to travel!) and wandered around there for the afternoon and took the boat back to Sorrento before dinner.
Positano
The next day we went to Vesuvius-I’m really thankful it wasn’t that sunny that day-the walk to the crater is about 15 minutes uphill. But the views are beautiful and it’s the first time I’ve ever been up a volano. It’s not doing anything right now but apparently it’s overdue for a big eruption. There are lots of people living right underneath it, though-I guess they have more faith than I do. View from Vesuvius Crater view
We also went to Capri which allowed me to discover I’m also prone to seasickness! In all seriousness, there had been a storm the night before and the Med was really stirred up. I quite like waves and bumps but it really got to me. When we got off in Capri I felt truly awful and we opted to take a tour of the island rather than try to figure it out ourselves. Actually the tour was worth it-air-conditioned bus, funny guide. Although his recommendation for a place to eat lunch was appalling and I suspect he must have been getting a kickback because no self-respecting Italian would ever have eaten there. Capri was stunning, just like all the books say it is. It was too rough to go see the Blue Grotto but that was ok. The really fascinating thing was the weather. As you can see from the first two photos, it was beautiful and clear. There was no separation between the sea and the sky. Capri 1 Capri 2
Then…well judge for yourselves. Nothing has been done to this photo-it’s just the weather. Weather
We’d intended to spend the last day lounging by the pool again, but the weather was too bad so we drove back to the airport early, left our bags in the left luggage and went into Naples for a few hours and did a self-guided walking tour of the centro storico. I love Naples (what I saw of it, at least). This might be because I had the best pizza of my life there (Ristorante Iris near the train station-looks univiting but is cheap and incredible.). Seriously though, it’s very gritty, full of dark little corners, bits of roman ruins, superstitions, incredible churches, and just life. It’s all just right there and fascinating. I think I might get tired of the noise and bustle after spending more than a few days there but I definitely want to go back.
The only minor irritation of going to such a touristy part of Italy is that no one wanted to speak Italian to me. (I speak Italian pretty well.) I think that people in service industries tend to just assume that tourists can’t speak Italian which is fair enough. And for me it felt ridiculous to inisist on Italian when the conversation had been started in English. It was better in Naples, though.
And now, back to the real world.